Into the Wild: My Stay at Pumba Water Lodge

Just over an hour’s drive from the bustling city of Port Elizabeth (now known as Gqeberha). Lies one of South Africa’s best-kept secrets—Pumba Private Game Reserve. Located in the malaria-free Eastern Cape, this luxurious 5-star game reserve offers the ultimate blend of wildlife adventure and top-tier comfort.

For families, first-time safari-goers, and nature lovers alike, Pumba is a slice of African magic.

Getting There

After landing at Port Elizabeth Airport, it’s a scenic 75-minute drive to Pumba. You can either hire a car or arrange a private transfer through the lodge. The route winds through gentle hills, farmlands, and quaint Eastern Cape towns. As you leave the city behind and head deeper into the bushveld, the air changes. The sky stretches wider.

You begin to breathe differently. You realize—you’re on safari.

Welcome to Pumba: Where Luxury Meets Wilderness

Pumba Game Reserve is home to two distinct 5-star lodges: Pumba Bush Lodge and Pumba Water Lodge. Both offer a completely different atmosphere, yet the same impeccable service and unmatched wildlife experiences.

Bush Lodge: Rugged Charm in the Hills

Bush Lodge is tucked into a lush thicket, perched on a small ridge with panoramic views of the Karoo landscape. Think earthy tones, stone walls, and thatched roofs. There’s a rawness to it—a closeness to the wild.

Each chalet is its own private sanctuary. Inside, the interior blends African chic with modern elegance. There’s a spacious lounge, a king-sized bed draped in mosquito netting, and an open fireplace for cooler nights. The en-suite bathroom is a dream—double vanities, a large freestanding bathtub, and both indoor and outdoor showers. Step outside to your private wooden deck, complete with a plunge pool and sun loungers.

If you’re lucky, you’ll spot giraffe or kudu wandering past as you sip a cold drink.

Pumba Water Lodge: Tranquility by the Lake

This is where I stayed—and let me tell you, it was unforgettable.

Nestled on the banks of Lake Cariega, Water Lodge feels like something out of a dream. The calm of the water, the rustle of reeds, and the regular arrival of elephants drinking at the water’s edge set the tone for peace and presence.

Each chalet is positioned to offer maximum privacy and unbeatable lake views. Inside, there’s warm wooden flooring, a sofa lounge, and enormous glass doors that open onto the water. The bathroom is lavish, featuring a deep bathtub, walk-in shower, and luxury toiletries. But the best part? The deck. Complete with a plunge pool, loungers, and a front-row seat to hippos splashing during the day and grazing at night.

At one point, we had a herd of elephants walk straight past our deck. Pure magic.

Owners and Ethos

Pumba is privately owned by passionate conservationists who believe in preserving wildlife and uplifting the local community. Their commitment is most evident in the Pumba Foundation—a non-profit arm that supports community health, education, and conservation initiatives. Whether it’s sponsoring school meals or preserving endangered species, the foundation plays a vital role in building a better future for all.

Activities: More Than Just Game Drives

At Pumba, you’re spoiled for choice. While the twice-daily game drives are the highlight, there’s so much more to experience.

Guided bush walks let you explore the ecosystem on foot.

Birdwatching tours offer glimpses of over 300 species.

Stargazing evenings showcase the African sky like never before.

Photographic safaris cater to amateur and professional photographers alike.

Best of all, the reserve is malaria-free, making it an ideal destination for families with children or anyone concerned about health and safety on safari.

The Big Five—and the Elusive White Lion

Yes, you can see the Big Five here: lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and buffalo. But Pumba is most famous for something truly special—its rare white lions.

On our second game drive, we were incredibly lucky. As the sun dipped below the horizon, our ranger spotted two white lions lounging in the grass. Their pale coats seemed to glow in the amber light. It felt surreal, almost mythical. Being in their presence was a privilege I’ll never forget.

Our ranger was phenomenal—knowledgeable, funny, and deeply respectful of the animals. He answered every question, spotted wildlife like a hawk, and ensured the kids in our vehicle were always engaged and safe.

Dining: A Feast in the Wild

At Pumba, food is more than a necessity—it’s an experience.

Breakfast is served after your morning game drive and includes everything from fresh fruit and pastries to hot breakfasts made to order.

Lunch is light yet satisfying—often featuring seasonal salads, gourmet sandwiches, and local specialties.

Dinner is a candlelit affair. Whether it’s in the main lodge, by the fire pit, or under the stars in a traditional boma, expect a rotating menu of South African cuisine with an international twist. Think grilled game meat, vegetarian curries, and decadent desserts.

Before each evening game drive, there’s high tea, with cakes, fresh fruit, and savory treats. And during your drive, the ranger pulls over for a “sundowner stop”—complete with drinks and snacks in the middle of the bush.

There’s nothing like sipping a gin and tonic while watching a herd of elephants stroll by.

The Soul Spa: Reconnect and Rejuvenate

Between game drives, I treated myself to a session at Soul Spa—Pumba’s serene health sanctuary. The spa offers a wide range of treatments, including massages, facials, body wraps, and reflexology. The space is quiet and soothing, with natural tones and aromas that instantly relax you.

I chose a Swedish massage, and by the end of the hour, I felt brand new. If you’re traveling with a partner, book the couples treatment room—it’s a lovely shared moment of indulgence.

A Place to Disconnect—and Truly Reconnect

What makes Pumba special isn’t just the luxury or the wildlife. It’s the feeling. The rhythm of the bush, the lack of screens, the long dinners, and the excitement of never knowing what you might see around the next bend.

For families, especially those with younger kids, this is a rare chance to bond in a distraction-free environment. No phones. No tablets. Just storytelling, stargazing, and shared wonder.

It’s a digital detox in the best possible way.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve never been on safari, let Pumba Game Reserve be your first. It’s luxurious, safe, and filled with once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Whether you’re sipping wine as hippos grunt in the distance, or watching your child’s eyes light up at the sight of a lioness on the prowl—this is a trip you’ll carry in your heart forever.

I can’t recommend Water Lodge highly enough, especially if you’re traveling with children or looking for a quieter, water-rich setting. The staff, the guides, the setting—everything was flawless.

Being in the bush reminds you of what matters. Connection. Presence. Awe. And of course, the wild beauty of South Africa.

Until next time, Pumba.