What is Tswalu?

Imagine a place where time slows down. Where every sunrise feels like a miracle, and each moment is wrapped in silence, broken only by birdsong or the distant roar of a lion. Welcome to Tswalu Kalahari Reserve.

This is not your average safari. It’s luxury. Simply wild. And very remote. And it’s deeply rooted in conservation and community. Tswalu is South Africa’s largest private game reserve, offering a rare, intimate connection with nature.  With just a handful of guests at any given time, you feel like you have the entire Kalahari to yourself.

I was lucky—so very lucky—to be gifted a stay here. And what a gift it was.

Where is Tswalu?

Tswalu lies deep in the heart of the Kalahari Desert, in South Africa’s Northern Cape. A land of red sand, golden grass, and endless skies. This isn’t the typical bushveld safari. It’s a unique biome. Harsh. Beautiful. Alive. And getting there is an adventure of its own. You fly in on a small plane and descend into a dream. Then, the Kalahari welcomes you. It greeted us with thunder—an electric storm rolling across the horizon. Rain pounded the earth, humidity thick in the air. Ten minutes later, it was gone.

Leaving the scent of wet dust and wild sage in its wake. The bush smelled glorious.

Where You Sleep

At Tswalu, you sleep in style. We stayed at The Motse, a contemporary lodge made with natural materials and soaked in Kalahari charm. Each suite offers space, privacy, and views that steal your breath. Inside, every detail has been considered. Outside, the landscape stretches endlessly, with the Korannaberg mountains rising in the distance. For families or groups, there’s Tarkuni Villa—a private retreat with all the luxury, and even more seclusion. What makes Tswalu unique is that your safari is entirely tailored. You set the pace. You choose the focus—photography, birding, tracking, or just soaking it all in. No rushed schedules. No shared vehicles.

Just you and the wild.

What You See at Tswalu

Where do I begin? Every drive revealed something magical.

From lionesses with cubs to the elusive cheetah, from the endangered African wild dog to tiny creatures like the bat-eared fox and spring hare. And oh—the meerkats. One morning, I lay flat on the sand, camera in hand, heart full. These curious little beings emerged from their burrows, soaking up the early sun. We watched them forage, play, and pose. They were perfect. Birders, take note—this is paradise. I saw the shaft-tailed whydah for the first time. Is it vivid color against the rust of the desert?

Unforgettable.

Our guide, Kyle, and tracker Oom Ben were outstanding. Kyle is a walking wildlife encyclopedia. He even listens to bird calls while washing dishes! At one point, he mimicked a bird so well, it flew back for a second look. That moment? Pure gold. And the best part—no crowds. Most days, we saw no other vehicles.

Just us, the desert, and the wild.

What will you eat?

And the food? Divine. Each dish was bursting with flavour, a reflection of the land. The staff? Warm, welcoming, always ready with a story or a smile. We also got a sneak peek of Klein JAN, the new restaurant by Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen. Opening soon, and already legendary. Walking in gave me goosebumps. It’s one of the most inspired spaces I’ve ever seen—creative, rooted, unforgettable.

Photos weren’t allowed, but I managed a sneaky snap of a certain someone’s Vellies.

Tswalu isn’t just a place. It’s a feeling. A journey into stillness, into wildness, into yourself. If you ever get the chance, go. It may just change the way you see the world.